SPI Program Info

SPI Course Pre-requisites

To enroll in a course you must meet the following:

  • Must be a current Professional Member of the AMGA

  • Must be 18 years of age as the start of course

  • Have led a minimum of 15 tradition climbs up to 5.6

  • Have a minimum of 12 months of climbing experience

  • Are an active climber with experience placing protection

  • Can comfortably top-rope 5.8 on various styles of climbs

SPI Exam Pre-requisites

To enroll in an exam you must meet the following:

  • Be a current Professional Member of the AMGA

  • Have successfully completed the SPI Course with in 2 years of exam.

  • Have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes (mostly at or above the 5.6 level

  • Can comfortably lead a 5.6 traditional route and top-rope 5.8 at the time of exam

Note: While candidates may attempt the exam any time after completing the course, it is strongly recommended that candidates take a minimum of 3 months between taking the course and exam to ensure they have had plenty of time to practice the tested skills.

Each course will cover the same material, however the order of lessons sometimes changes to due various factors

Sample Course Schedule

Day 1

  • SPI and AMGA Program Overview

  • Professionalism

  • Equipment

  • Knots and Hitches

  • Protection and Anchoring

  • Belaying

  • Pedagogy

  • End of Day Debrief

Day 2

  • Climbing Site Selection

  • Site Organization and Group Management

  • Base-Managed Sites

  • Assistance Skills: Base-Manages]d Sites

  • Programming and Risk Management

  • End of Day Debriefs

Day 3

  • Instructor Lead Demo Climb

  • Top-Managed Sites

  • Lowering

  • Assistance Skills: Top-Managed Sites

  • Rappelling

  • Climbing Movement

  • Review Sessions

  • Final Group and Individual Debriefs

Required Equipment List

For Courses and Exams

  • UIAA/CE approved Climbing Helmet

  • UIAA/CE approved Climbing Harness with belay loop

  • Climbing shoes or in which the candidate can climb up to 5.7

  • Nut tool

  • Standard “lead climbing rack” - double rack of cams from # 0.3 - 3, single #4, stoppers

  • Minimum of 6 HMS “Pear-shaped” Locking Carabiners

  • Minimum of two 48” (double length) sling - at least one nylon

  • Manual braking belay/rappel device (e.g. ATC, Reverso, etc)

  • Releasable assisted-braking device (e.g. Petzl GriGri, Trango Cinch) - GriGri preferred

  • 1 Prusik “Friction” Loop (e.g. 13.5” Sterling Hollowblock, 35mm Beal Jammy)

  • 1 Cordelette (7mm nylon, 20ft long)

  • 1 Static Rope (9.5-10mm, 100+ ft long)

  • 1 50 or 60m Dynamic Rope (9.4 - 10mm, suitable for leading and top-roping)

  • Approach Shoes

  • Note-taking devices and timepiece

*When purchasing gear, please stick to reputable climbing brands and climbing shops/online retailers. Please avoid unknown Amazon brands!

Please ensure all of your equipment is marked before arriving on course!