Learn To Lead

Tie into the sharp end.

TAKE THE NEXT STEP IN YOUR CLIMBING JOURNEY

This course will teach you the skills to lead climbs on traditional gear and give you the knowledge to take your climbing anywhere. The gear placements in Joshua Tree are often tricky to figure out with flaring cracks and large crystals. During this program you will learn the nuances of placing bomber protection, whether on a climb or when building an anchor. If you can lead traditional routes in Joshua Tree, you will be able to lead anywhere!

WHO IS THIS FOR? Climbers who want to take their climbing to the next level. Must have previous outdoor top-rope climbing experience at the 5.8 grade or higher.

WHAT YOU’LL LEARN:

  • How to place and evaluate traditional gear (i.e. cams, stoppers, etc)

  • How to build anchors at the top of a climb using traditional gear, boulders, bolts, and the climbing rope

  • Clipping technique

  • Body and rope positioning while leading

  • Conserving energy on lead

  • Belaying a partner from the top using a GriGri and auto-blocking plate (i.e. ATC guide)

  • Rappeling techniques

DURATION: 2 or 3 Days

SUGGESTED RATIO: 1 - 2 people

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? Rates are the same as private guiding and are based on number of people and duration. To keep scheduling flexible, you can book your days together or spread them out over a few weekends if you are local to SoCal.

SAMPLE ITINERARY

Day 1

  • Intensive gear placement and evaluation at ground level

  • Anchor building at the top of the climb

  • Discuss clipping and body positioning when leading

  • One mock lead if time permits

Day 2

  • Intensive mock-leading. You will do several mock-leads and variety of climbs with the instructor evaluating every piece of gear with you.

  • Rappelling techniques

Day 3

  • More mock-lead practice if needed

  • How to choose appropriate and safe leads. Using a guidebook, mountain project, etc.

  • Live lead climb! You may do 1 or more live leads depending on timing and goals

Note: The instructor will choose an appropriate climb for each person to lead live based on their ability and comfort level. Each participant will have their own pace of digesting and learning the material on this course. While most participants feel ready to do their first real lead at the end of the course, there are occasions where some participants do not feel ready… in which case we will focus on more practice to get you closer to feeling comfortable leading :)

Questions about Learn to Lead courses and what your progression could look like? Feel free to get in touch!